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2am: Dessert Bar

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Black Gold – three layer truffle chocolate mousse, caramel, cocoa sorbet, basil, and hazelnut nougatine. Like a United Colours of Benetton concept in their bringing together of distinctly different-tasting (and contrastingly-coloured) elements. It’s a grassy/caramel/bitter chocolate ménage a trois that somehow works when you do a vertical fork-dive, yet the…

Hojicha Sesame ほうじ茶セサミ ー tofu parfait, hojicha custard, and pear vodka sorbet. Easily the most nuanced and exciting of the three desserts I tried on my latest visit. There are flourishes like mushroom crumble, ginger gel and white chocolate ganache to ensure that you can experiment with a bajillion combinations…

Cassis Plum 梅カシス ー cassis bombe, elderflower yogurt foam, plum liqueur, and bamboo shoots. Like the gorgeous girl that initially dazzles and has a promising start, but who eventually falters as you realise it’s all make-up magic and she doesn’t have the substance and personality underneath all that glacial beauty.…